Cezanne, an Historic Hotel and a Memorable French Meal

If you thought we were Paris, guess again… Syracuse, New York

Epic vacations earn special places in our hearts and memories.  But the weekend getaway, that drive not too far from home, can earn as special a place, if not for the monumental stature, for the quality of the moment.

At the eastern edge of the Finger Lakes region Syracuse was our weekend destination for an afternoon of fine art, dinner at an authentic French restaurant, and an evening stay at a hotel listed on the National Trust for Historic Preservation’s list of Historic Hotels of America. The getaway was shaped around a visit to the Everson Museum of Art to see Turner to Cezanne: Masterpieces from the Davies Collection. An extraordinary group of 53 paintings from an overall collection of 260 assembled between 1908 and 1923, the show takes the visitor from Turner’s naturalism to Cezanne’s modern creations including an exceptional representation of Impressionist artworks. As stunning as the art was this show was a statement on art patronage, lifestyle, and a glimpse of history during a most significant period in the modern world.  The Davies sisters of Wales committed their wealth to the support of great art that now reflects back on radically changing times in Europe.

Juxtaposed to these magnificent artworks is the contemporary architecture of the museum itself. Designed by world renowned architect I.M. Pei, the Everson Museum of Art was designed to break tradition of a building-vessel to house art and instead be an urban sculptural object itself; a building designed to be viewed from different angles and perspectives. This being my first visit to the Everson, I drove right by, not realizing the poured concrete structure was in fact the museum. Maybe it was the period in which it was designed (1960’s), or the radical departure from what I expect an art museum to be, or the fact that I’m not a fan of concrete buildings, but I found it to be awkward. The museum deserves a second visit, a visit during the warmer months when I can better appreciate its design from outdoor perspectives.

Turner to Cezanne runs through Jan. 3, 2010. If you visit make time to see the permanent collection of ceramic arts located in the lower level, a truly outstanding collection of historically significant art works.

After the museum we traveled just a few blocks to our hotel, the Jefferson Clinton Hotel. The Jefferson Clinton found new life in 2001 after years of abandonment and is now a beautiful hotel of historic significance. Our room was well appointed, the staff friendly and helpful, and our stay included included a well stocked and served breakfast buffet. The Jefferson Clinton is located on one corner of Syracuse’s Armory Square neighborhood. Armory Square is a first-rate community of shops, restaurants, condominiums, and night spots anchored by The Milton J. Rubenstein Museum of Science and Technology (M.O.S.T.), Syracuse’s old armory. Armory Square is the model for revitalizing downtown districts to attract people of all ages and interests.

An afternoon of enjoying French art naturally deserves a French meal. Reservations were made at L’Adour Restaurant, an authentic French restaurant located a few blocks from Armory Square on Montgomery Street. The fact that every employee we interacted with were French bode well for what was to come. The menu was well designed: a sampling of flavors and foods that represented classic selections without being overwhelming. Off the standard menu was a prix fixe menu of three courses, a nice option for a quality meal at a reasonable price. The wine list represented all the significant regions of France with a full range of price points without being overly lengthy making it easy to navigate and find your bottle. We chose to go off-list, bringing along a special bottle to celebrate the weekend: 2001 Chateau Prieure-Lichine, Margeaux.  We made entree selections of beef and lamb both being classically prepared and well executed. Entrees from the grill, including our ribeye, offered a choice of sauce (Bordelaise, Roquefort, Basil cream, Dijon, Peppercorn or Beurre Mae d’Hotel) and side (French fries, steamed vegetables, potatoes au gratin or spinach and mushroom gratin).  The lamb, a roasted rack, was served over a bed of great northern beans, a dish of simple pleasure and subtle flavor. With our meal we also chose a mushroom flan appetizer, salad and a butternut squash soup along with a a shared dessert: profiteroles with ice cream and Belgian dark chocolate sauce. The mushroom flan appetizer was the surprise of the meal, you can bet I’ll be looking for a recipe to share with you. If I had one complaint it would be that the front end was a bit out of sync with the kitchen. At times I felt a little rushed and our entrees were not as hot as I would have liked. Giving them the benefit of the doubt, there was a large party of 15-20 guests seated near us and the staff may have not been prepared to manage this group along with the rest of the house.

It’s all too easy to overlook what’s in your backyard when planning the perfect getaway. In my 20 years of living in the Finger Lakes, Syracuse never landed on my radar as a destination other than a trip to the Carrier Dome for a football game or rock concert. In fact the city offers a multitude of culture, dining, and entertainment for all tastes. Our visit was a success and we will be planning a trip again, next time when the temperature is a little more accommodating for walking tours of its historic buildings and other outdoor spots that the city has to offer.

I went to a picnic and a race broke out

Last Sunday my wife and I packed a picnic lunch to take to a beautiful park setting high in the hills above Seneca Lake. We packed a variety of cheeses (thank you Wegmans) salami, red wine-marinated steak sandwiches, fruit salad, etc. and of course, a nice bottle of Chardonnay. The sun was shining bright, the breezes blowing, but a little chilly for mid-July. 

Racing action during the 2009 Glen Nationals, Watkins Glen International.

By the sounds of it you might think we were at any one of a number of state parks in the Finger Lakes. But no… we were at Watkins Glen International race track to watch the Glen Nationals. Up on top of a high hill in Schuyler County sits a 3.4 mile road racing course - one of the most famous in America, and noted as a must-race location throughout the world of motorsports. This was my wife’s first time to “The Glen” so I picked this event to warm her up to the track. The Glen Nationals is a perfect race to be introduced to The Glen: smaller crowds, accessible drivers, easy hikes to a spectator vantage points, a wide variety of cars and classes, and seven different races throughout the day so you’ll never bore of any one.

So why is this a notable food experience? It’s the fun of combining two disparate activities, in this case a Euro-style lawn picnic with motorsports, to create an event more memorable than the individual. Summertime is too short, so get out, pack your favorite foods, and enjoy your hometown’s outdoor events with a fine meal in tow.

Red Wine-Marinated Steak Sandwiches

From Cooking Light magazine

Beef:

• 1/2 cup dry red wine
• 3 tbsp low-sodium soy sauce
• 2 tbsp Worchestershire sauce
• 2 tbsp fresh lemon juice
• 2 tbsp Dijon mustard
• 1-1/2 tsp coarsely ground black pepper
• 1 tsp dried thyme
• 1 lb. flank steak, trimmed

Horseradish cream:

• 1/4 cup fat-free sour cream
• 1 tbsp prepared horseradish
• 1 tbsp Dijon mustard

Greens:

• 1 tbsp minced shallots
• 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice
• 1 tsp Dijon mustard
• 1/4 tsp grated lemon rind
• 1/2 tsp extravirgin olive oil
• 1/8 tsp black pepper
• 3 cups mixed salad greens

Remaining ingredients:

• 8 slices diagonally cut French bread, toasted
• 1/2 cup shaved fresh Parmesan cheese

To prepare beef, combine first seven ingredients, add steak, marinate in refrigerator for up to eight hours or overnight.

Remove steak and cook over a hot grill or grill pan, four minutes on each side. Let sit for five minutes, slice thinly on the diagonal.

Combine horseradish cream ingredients.

Combine all ingredients for dressing, toss with greens.

Spread horseradish cream over each of four slices of bread. Add beef, greens, and a shaved piece of cheese then top with a second slice of bread.

Buy Local

Looking the person in the eye who grew your food is powerful experience.

I posted  a few links to blogs in my blogroll related to eating local and organic farming. I’ll be perfectly honest with you  - I’m not an organic farming/anti-industrial food agribusiness zealot. What I am is a person who has seen the light of eating local and am working it into my life in a way that makes sense for me. Organic is important, no doubt - there’s a comfort gained knowing that what you see is what you eat, and many times you can taste the difference.

But what’s really sparked my interest is the local food scene. When you buy from a local grower you’re putting food on your plate that was raised by a neighbor, not 2,500-miles (food miles) the typical food product travels to get to your kitchen. Some folks will argue for buying local in order to reduce the impact global transportation has on energy consumption - a debatable argument at best as I’m willing to bet the super cargo ship traveling across the pacific ocean is a more efficient means of transportation than one person’s pick up truck.

For me the real deal is meeting the grower either at your local farmer’s market or the farm,  and having that person look you in tbe eye and say “I give you my word. If you don’t agree then I’ll make good on it.” Occasionally I’ll shop at a farm where beef and lamb is grass fed and the pork raised on organic feed. I, like any other customer, has an open invitation to walk the pastures and meet the herd or flock. In a day when one meat processor can spread a food-borne illness across the globe I feel a like I can sleep a little easier at night buying from a person who I know on a first name basis.

Like I said at the top, I’m not dogmatic about buy local-buy organic. A part of me enjoys the event of driving  the less-traveled road between these Finger Lakes to do a little business with my neighbor. In future posts I’ll share sources, cooking techniques, recipies, etc. for local foods and maybe you too will see more on the plate than just the food in front of you.

Corned Beef and Cabbage

Recipe from www.foodtv.com.

For the past two years I’ve been using this recipe for our annual St. Patty’s Day meal. What makes this different than most is the horseradish sauce - a creamy, spicy sauce that adds the depth of flavor needed to transform corned beef and cabbage from a culinary annual ritual to a good hearty meal you can look forward to.

Serves 6-8

• 3 lb. corned beef brisket (uncooked), in brine
• 16 cups cold water
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 teaspoons black peppercorns
• 4 whole allspice berries
• 2 whole cloves
• 1/2 large head green cabbage (about 2 lbs.), cut in 8 wedges
• 1 1/4 lb. small new potatoes, halved
• Freshly ground pepper

Horseradish sauce:

• 3/4 cup mayonnaise
• 3/4 cup sour cream
• 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons jarred grated horseradish with liquid
• 1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest
• 2 teaspoons kosher salt
• Freshly ground pepper

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Place the corned beef in a colander in the sink and rinse well under cold running water.

Place the corned beef in a large Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid, add the water, bay leaves, peppercorns, allspice and cloves. Bring to a full boil, uncovered, and skim off any scum that rises to the surface. Cover and transfer pan to the oven, and braise until very tender, about 3 hours and 45 minutes.

Transfer the corned beef to a cutting board and cover tightly with foil to keep warm. Add the cabbage and potatoes to the cooking liquid and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer until the vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer the cabbage to a large platter. Slice the corned beef across the grain of the meat into thin slices. Lay the slices over the cabbage and surround it with the potatoes. Ladle some of the hot cooking liquid over the corned beef and season with pepper. Serve immediately with the horseradish sauce.