A Winemaker’s Dinner in Woodinville

I’ve been teasing this dinner for two days now, wait no longer here it is…

While doing research for our trip Pam learned that one of the Woodinville wineries, Covington Cellars, was hosting a winemaker’s dinner. The event was earmarked for their wine club members, but it appeared to be open to others if seats remained. Before committing we thought it best to first taste their wines to see if we liked them. As it was, we did, especially the Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc. After a nice tasting and good conversation with Donovan Claflin, assistant winemaker and general manager, we asked if seats remained for Saturday’s dinner. Lucky for us two seats at the banquet table were available and so with a swipe of the credit card we were in.

Covington has a young-gun of a winemaker, Morgan Lee. Under the direction of owner David Lawson, Morgan and Donovan craft some very nice wines that exemplify the greatness Washington State fruit and contemporary wine making techniques, and great talent produce. Morgan greeted us and all the guests at the door and we were soon handed a glass of their Rough House Red, a blend featuring Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot.

As you might imagine, a winery like Covington is going to host a party most befitting it–small, intimate, unpretentious, informative and fun. The table was set for 18; a perfect number of seats for this winemaker’s dinner. Even though we knew no one at the party (few did) we all had a common tie that bound us to the event which made it easy to get to know one another. We had a grand time dining next to an Australian couple who, because of positions of employment, spent most of their adult lives traveling the world. With the husband approaching retirement soon our newest friends could rely on life experiences to add color and flavor to the conversations. This is the hidden jewel at events like this: your common appreciation for wine and food and desire to learn more about each creates the perfect environment for complete strangers to intersect lives on a rainy evening at the back end of a warehouse district sitting at a grand dining table.

The evening unfolded with a tour of the production facility for some, and a brief cooking demonstration for others. Each of the seven courses prepared by Executive Chef Trinity Mack was paired with a wine. Mid-way through the courses we took a break. Morgan lead us back to the fermentation tanks to discuss the latest vintage and how he chooses to work the fruit in the tank and also to sample a yet to be released wine. We made our way back to the tasting room to continue our dining and conversation. As we enjoyed the meal our conversations gravitated towards the state of Washington wines today and how Morgan found his place in the industry.

To say that the food and wine was a wonderful way to end a day of wine tasting goes without saying. The important take-aways include the fellowship with new-found food friends and the added layer of knowledge gained about Washington State boutique wines that we could only have experienced through an evening with a winemaker, a chef, and a dozen or so people with unique points of view.

What we ate, what we drank…

Tray passed

Smoked Salmon Stuffed Petite Yukon
Wild Mushroom Smoked Gouda Tart
2006 Rough House Red

Amouse Bouche

Seared Scallops with Eggplant Truffle Caviar & Roasted Garlic Fried Kale
2008 Dress White

Soup

Chorizo Clams & Mussels with Goat Cheese Crostini & Sweet Pea Vines
2009 Josie Rosé

Greens

Bed of Baby Spinach with Poached Quail Egg, Capicola Ham & Balsamic Beet Candied Almonds
2007 Prima Miscela

Palate Cleanser

Cranberry Wine Infused Sorbet

Entrée

Braised Porcini Pork Shank With Cauliflower Potato Puree & Bacon Beurre Rouge
2007 Cabernet Franc

Sweet Bite

White Chocolate Crème Brulee With Lace Cookie & Blood Orange Shooter
2006 Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc

Grilled Scallops with Corn Salad

I made this for the first time last night – a perfect late summer dish that includes fresh corn and tomatoes right from the garden.

from Food & Wine, June 2002

6 Servings

• 6 ears of corn, shucked
• 1 pint grape tomatoes, halved (or use whatever is fresh from the garden)
• 3 scallions, white and light green parts only, thinly sliced
• 1/3 cup basil leaves, finely shredded
• 1 small shallot
• 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
• 2 tablespoons hot water
• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
• 1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons vegetable oil (canola, safflower, olive oil)
• 1-1/2 lbs. dry sea scallops

Cook corn in boiling water until tender. Drain, cool, then slice off kernels into a large bowl. Add tomatoes, scallions, and basil. Season with salt and pepper.

In a blender, puree the shallot with the vinegar, hot water, and mustard. With the blender on, slowly add 6 tablespoons of the oil until combined. Season the vinaigrette with salt and pepper, then toss with the corn salad. (If making a smaller batch, consider hand whisking vinaigrette in a bowl as you slowly add the oil.)

In a large bowl toss the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil with the scallops; season with salt and pepper. Heat a large grill pan and cook over moderately high heat, in batches – about 4 minutes per batch.

Mound the corn salad on plates, top with scallops and serve.

Coquilles St. Jacques (Scallops with Mushrooms in Cream Sauce)

Adapted from The Best of Craig Claiborne

A rich hearty dish, Coquille St. Jacques can be served either as an appetizer or a main course. The ingredient list is short therefore their quality is key as each component’s flavor will influence the dish.

• 4 tbsp butter
• 1 tbsp finely chopped shallots
• 2 cups fresh sliced mushrooms
• 1/2 cup dry white wine or dry white French vermouth
• 1 pound scallops, preferably dry scallops
• 2 tbsp flour
• 1/2 cup milk
• 1 cup plus 2 tbsp heavy cream
• Pinch of cayenne

Melt the butter and add shallots. Cook for a moment then add mushrooms. When softened add salt, pepper, and wine.

Add the scallops and cook until just heated through, then remove them and the mushrooms with a slotted spoon. Pour off and reserve the liquid in a bowl. Many times people inadvertently overcook scallops and when they do they turn tough.

Melt 2 tbsp of butter in the pan and add the flour whisk rapidly and cook for a minute, but don’t let it burn. Add the reserved liquid and stir until thickened and smooth. Add the milk and one cup of cream, cook for five minutes and flavor with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Whip the 2 remaining tbsp of cream and fold it into the sauce.

In six scallop shells or ramekins divide the scallops and mushroom mixture. Spoon the sauce over each dish then place in a preheated broiler. Turn the scallops once while broiling, remove the dishes when a nicely browned glaze forms on the top of each dish. Serve immediately.

Wine Suggestions

Let’s see …seafood, cream sauce. Best bet is a Chardonnay, but be careful not to choose a bottle with too much oak aging as it may conflict with the basic flavors of scallop, cream, and mushroom. Think white Burgundy, New Zealand, or one of the better Finger Lakes bottlings because these regions tend to emphasize the fruit and soil characteristics in their Chardonnays, not the oak aging.